Friday, March 27, 2009

I Heart Eric Ripert

If you think Chef Eric Ripert is too good to be true, think again. I am pleased to report that the man who is known for commanding respect while still being both extraordinarily kind and extraordinarily attractive lives up to his reputation, and then some.

Ripert appeared at his restaurant, 10 Arts, at the Ritz Carlton on March 26. Although labeled a book signing, the event was in fact a cozy cocktail hour, devoid of the assembly line drudgery of the Martha Stewart event (see my earlier entry). The Ritz lobby was wide open, well populated without feeling crowded, with people clutching Ripert's new book, On the Line. I looked to my left to see that Ripert was sitting on an arc-shaped booth, happily posing for photographs and chatting with people. There was no line. Servers were bringing complimentary canapes to people.

I was overwhelmed. Here I was going to be given the chance to sit down - not humbly ask for a signature, but sit down - with one of my all-time favorite chefs. Co-owner of Le Bernadin in New York, pal of Tony Bourdain, James Beard Award winner, Ripert captured a place in my heart with his appearances on Top Chef. Adopting a Tim Gunn-esque ability to relay insightful criticism while still being supportive, Ripert presented as a soft-spoken culinary genius who genuinely cared about both food and people.

And here he was. I reported to the host stand to retrieve my copy of the book and expressed my anxious enthusiasm. The host relayed how pleased she was about how kind he was in person, and how different that was from a typical executive chef. I attempted to queue in the small circle of people milling around Ripert's table and a kind soul offered to take my picture with Ripert. I casually replied that this would be nice, inside thinking, "yes! double yes! Thank God for you, kind stranger!"

So it came to pass that I marched up to Chef Ripert, extended my hand, announced my name with some measure of confidence, and sat next to him. Ripert leaned in as the aforementioned kind stranger took our picture. Even post-flash, Ripert remembered my name asked if I would like the book to be made out to me. Trying to get past my thoughts of "he just! said! my! name!" I responded that yes, that would be great. I asked him how he managed to stay so calm and patient with the chefs on Top Chef, to which he replied that he understood they are faced with difficult tasks and he wants to be helpful and constructive. I struggled to memorize the words and the moments, realizing how great he was.

Lest you have any doubt about the man, you need look no further than the way he signed the book -- he spelled out his name after his signature. Amazing.

10 Arts is located at the Ritz Carlton, 10 South Broad Street, Philadelphia. Ripert's personal blog can be found at http://www.aveceric.com/.

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Love her!

Many thanks to e, over at Foodaphilia (http://www.foodaphilia.com/) for naming this blog one of her top 10 favorite philly food blogs (http://www.blogs.com/topten/top-10-philadelphia-food-blogs/). E cooks, dines out, and blogs more than I do, so if you're looking for some great food blogging when I haven't posted in a while, I highly recommend it.

We hope to live to up to her compliment. By we, I mean me.

Image courtesy of Crate and Barrel.

Monday, March 9, 2009

Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steak House

Walking into Del Frisco's, which occupies the Packard Grande Building at 15th and Chestnut, felt a little like when Indiana Jones first shines his torch up at the Well of Souls. It's impressive and feels like a discovery of some lost treasure. The ceiling height stretches up for forty feet and a thirty-four foot wine tower occupies the focal point. The walls themselves are ornately carved and swaths of red fabric adorn them, directing your eye upward. Apparently, some of the major scenes of Jamie Foxx's new movie were filmed here. I took a detailed photo of one of the carvings, below right.

Back at eye level, however, we were greeted by not less than four women who eagerly took our names and directed us to the coat room, also staffed by roughly three women. As it turns out, the uniform at Del Frisco's, a chain restaurant, is a very short, ruffly black dress, fishnet stockings and stiletto heels, the effect of which transforms this lost architectural treasure into a high end Hooters. I was getting the feeling that I am not part of Del Frisco's target audience.

Nevertheless, I was part of the "press" invited to a steak and wine tasting that evening. Arriving a bit early, the maitre d' ushered us into the bar, where we sampled the drinks. Del Frisco's makes an excellent "juniper blossom" martini, with Bombay gin, lillet, Cointreau and fresh lime. Although a bit summer-y, I enjoyed it.

The tasting took place in the vault which was, of course, a literal vault, but nicely carpeted and surrounded by wine cellars. Executive Chef John Stritzinger told us about the cuts of steak, breaking them into three categories: the filet mignon, the New York Strip and the rib-eye. The spectrum of the three ranges from tender but flavorless (the filet) to more tough but flavorful (the rib-eye) due in part to the fat content and marbling. Cuts of steak with the bone tend to have more marbling than without. Apparently, you can order a bone-in filet off the menu, as you can with many cuts.

The steak itself was very good, with appropriate accompanying wines. In a strange twist, the filet was a bit overdone, and our fishnet stocking-clad server responded that it was to offer a compromise to the entire room. Serving medium-well steak to those that write about food, and presumably know enough to order steak medium rare, was strange. As predicted by Stritzinger, however, the rib-eye was the most flavorful. It was also the most rare, which could also explain the flavor.

Del Frisco's seasons its steaks with only clarified butter, salt and pepper, as we were told, but the seasoning almost forms another layer, it is so generously applied. This is not to my taste, as I do not always want to taste pepper with some of the better cuts of beef. We were told that it was more of a Southern style (where the Del Frisco's chain originates). Steaks were rumored to be over $60 each, although the online menu does not list prices.

The dessert was a scrumptious lemon cupcake with a lemon curd center and part of a project with Project H.O.M.E, which works to combat homelessness in Philadelphia. Del Frisco's will supply these desserts to the Project H.O.M.E. cafe and continue to work to employ the homeless recommended by Project H.O.M.E.

A noble goal for a restaurant that otherwise appears to value things like the mini-skirt and the $15 cocktail.

Del Frisco's is located at 1426 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, http://www.delfriscos.com/. Thanks to FFE and fellow bloggers at www.foodaphilia.com and frieswiththatshake.net for adding to the fun.